Beauty is pain, and in the renaissance it was no different. Many of the beauty trends and products back then were not good for your health in the long run. While you think we left such things in the  past, truth is, some of our current beauty products are not much safer.

When shoppers approach America’s cosmetic counters, they see an overwhelming array of beauty products – , from lipstick, mascara, eyeliner, eyeshadow and blushes to nail polish, deodorants, makeup powders and fragrances. They see appealing packaging by big beauty brand names — L’Oreal, Revlon, CoverGirl, Estée Lauder — promoted by gorgeous models whose ruby red lips and lusciously long eyelashes say buy this to become me. But skin-care specialists and scientists see something else — toxic chemicals laced with dangerous chemicals.

“Fragrances and preservatives are clinically relevant allergens found in cosmetic products,” said Dr. Katlein França, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology and cutaneous surgery at the University of Miami Miller School of Medicine. “They can cause skin sensitization, allergic reactions or skin irritation.”

In their quest to look better and smell better, women in the United States use an average of 12 personal products containing 168 chemicals every day; men use six products containing 85 different chemicals, according to the Environmental Working Group, a nationwide nonprofit focused on changing industry standards. 

In 2022, the average annual expenditure on cosmetics, perfume, and bath preparation products amounted to approximately $211.82 per person in the United States, according to Statista, a German online platform that specializes in data gathering and visualization. Globally, the beauty market generated nearly $430 billion in 2022.

Despite the money consumers pour into beauty products, most customers are generally  unaware that their lipstick may contain lead and mascara may hold mercury. Morgan Underwood, a sophomore legal studies major, has been one of those unwitting customers.

“I used to kind of put anything on my skin without looking at the ingredients,” said Underwood, who says she is trying to become more aware of harmful product ingredients.

“I know how bad it is,” said Luis Davila, a junior business major from Puerto Rico. While it is not uncommon for men to use cosmetics, Davila said he prefers to abstain. He said an aunt who is an esthetician warned him about skin care products that are very bad for the skin and that can cause some serious damage.

A family of more than 4,700 synthetic chemicals appears to be the most controversial cosmetic ingredient. PFAS, which stands for poly- and perfluoroalkyl substances, are found in lotions, cleansers, foundation, lipstick, eyeliner, eyeshadow, mascara, nail polish and shaving cream. They have been linked to several significant health concerns, including cancers and reduced immune function. Cosmetic company critics say these “forever chemicals” preserve color and are used in makeup to make the skin look smooth and shiny.PFAS have strong bonds that can’t be broken down naturally, so aside from harming your health, when you decide to wash your face before bed, the makeup residue that goes down the drain eventually enters rivers and oceans, affecting the environment in the long term.

Parabens, another group of chemicals, are found in some cosmetics, body creams, hair products and sunscreens. They can be absorbed through the skin. Some parabens have hormone-disrupting properties and have been linked to breast cancer. 

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration oversees cosmetics, but its authority kicks in after the fact, with unsafe products taken off the market only after they have been proven to be unsafe. Even though the agency maintains a list of prohibited and restricted ingredients to prevent the use of harmful substances in cosmetics, the FDA admits that it has little to no power over the regulations of chemicals used in cosmetics. 

Dr. França points to issues with how cosmetic brands report their ingredients. Many products list “fragrance” on the label, but very few clarify the specific ingredients that make up the fragrance, she said.

The law does not require cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, to have FDA approval before they go on the market, and the FDA does not require specific tests to demonstrate the safety of individual products or ingredients. The law also does not require cosmetic companies to share their safety information with the FDA. The United States, the largest cosmetic market in the world, bans only 30 cosmetic ingredients. In contrast, the European Union bans more than 1,300, according to Credo, a beauty supply company formed 10 years ago to offer safe beauty products.

This gives cosmetic companies a lot of freedom, leaving it up to the consumer to find good-quality products in the market.

Enter clean makeup.

Clean makeup refers to products that contain ingredients that are beneficial to the skin, t often natural ingredients. Many brands have focused on making ethical products that look good and contribute to healthy skin. They use natural ingredients such as botanical extracts and minerals.

The shift toward cleaner makeup emphasizes a more natural approach to cosmetics, said Alexandra Simeone, a New Jersey makeup artist. “I think it helps people embrace their natural beauty a lot more,” she said.

The passage of the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 and the subsequent formation of the FDA werethe first national steps in scrutinizing questionable beauty products. However, the concept of clean makeup dates back to the 1970s with the founding of companies such as Aveda in 1978. 

Beauty industry researchers list other developments that have contributed to the “clean beauty” timeline, including when Whole Foods introduced aluminum-free deodorants in the 1990s. 

As consumers collectively become more focused on what they are putting on their skin, makeup brands are creating cleaner products. 

Haus Labs, which has dominated the clean beauty industry in the past few years, was originally founded in 2019 by pop star Lady Gaga. In 2023, the brand underwent a massive rebrand that shifted its focus to creating clean products.

Sophomore business and real estate major Navya Murthy is a clean makeup convert.

“Haus Labs foundation and concealer has become my go-to for the last few months now,” Murthy said. “I notice that my skin reacts better to water-based products.” 

 Other companies such as H&M, Sephora and Ulta have taken steps to ban PFAS in their products.  “Clean makeup” brands such as Goop, 100% Pure, Ilia Beauty and Alima Pure focus on using natural and organic ingredients that are not harmful to the human body or to the environment. 

“I love that Ilia is in Sephora and it is visually appealing,” said Underwood. who began paying more attention to her skin health during COVID. “I have really made an effort into incorporating cleaner skin care products into my everyday makeup routine. It has made all the difference in contributing to keeping my skin healthy.”

In the past people have viewed makeup as a way to conceal imperfections and blemishes – instead of focusing on the root of the problem, Simeone said.

“The new movement has shifted the focus to skin care much more,” said Simeone. “It is good for everybody, especially the consumer.”

words_antonia botta and ava majdanski. photo&design_marita gavioti.

This article was published in Distraction’s Winter 2024 print issue.

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